There is something deeply rewarding about guiding a friend you’ve known for nearly a decade. When Sudip first came to Malaysia to bird with me ten years ago, he was a passionate bird photographer. Fast forward to June 2026, and his vision has expanded beautifully into a wide-angle appreciation for landscapes, elusive mammals, and dynamic drone photography.
When two old friends head to Borneo for an 11-day marathon, you don't waste a single second. Our official itinerary spanned June 5th to 15th, but since we both touched down a day early, we immediately hit the ground running. Our bonus day yielded a flock of Wandering Whistling-Ducks—the perfect prologue to an unforgettable expedition.
Rising Into the Mist: Gunung Alab to Trusmadi
Day 1 took us up the winding roads to Gunung Alab early in the morning. The air was wonderfully cool and thick with montane mist. Setting up at the bird station felt like opening a treasure chest. The high-elevation specialists came thick and fast: the stunning Bornean Green Magpie, Chestnut-hooded and Sunda Laughingthrushes, Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher, and the legendary Whitehead’s Trogon. We spent hours working the station and exploring all the way to the peak.
From the peaks, we shifted our strategy to the dark, patient confines of the bird hides in Trusmadi for the next two days. Our ultimate target was a male Bulwer’s Pheasant. Nature didn't grant us the full-tailed male this time, but we were richly rewarded when a magnificent female stepped into the open early one morning. The Trusmadi hides kept the momentum going with deep-forest jewels like the Bornean Banded Pitta, Black-throated Wren-babbler, Dayak Blue Flycatcher, and Crimson-headed Partridge.
Day 4 tested our patience. The weather turned sour as we blanked on the Whitehead’s Broadbill, but a male and female Whitehead’s Trogon saved the afternoon, offering spectacular frames despite the gloom.
Ground Jewels and Canopy Blockades: Telupid to Sepilok
On Day 5, we were moving well before sunrise, transferring to a 4WD and trekking 40 minutes up a rugged trail to a remote hide in Telupid. The payoff? The legendary Bornean Peacock-Pheasant made numerous appearances. Right on its heels was the Western Hooded Pitta—a fascinating bird for us, featuring the distinct black crown rather than the chestnut crown of the migratory individuals we usually see in Peninsular Malaysia.
By late afternoon, we reached the Sepilok Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC), where a Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle perched quietly in the fading light, giving Sudip all the time he needed. The next morning at Sepilok brought a classic jungle curveball. We were hunting for the Black-faced subspecies of the Banded Kingfisher.
We found the bird, but getting an eye-level shot from the canopy walk was entirely thwarted—a rowdy troop of Pig-tailed Macaques completely blockaded the walkway! Defeated by primates, we headed into the trails, only to stumble upon a lone Sabah Partridge at ridiculously close range and a beautifully shy Diard’s Trogon.
The Mighty Kinabatangan: Cruising the "Big Five"
We spent the next three nights based in Sukau, exploring the dense waters of the Kinabatangan River. Torrential afternoon downpours became a daily ritual, which ultimately cost us our chance at the Bornean Pygmy Elephant. However, the river still delivered beautifully.
We were targeting the region's famous wildlife icons. While the elephants eluded us, we cleanly logged the remaining heavyweights: Saltwater Crocodiles (also known as Estuarine Crocodiles) sunning on the mud banks, family groups of Proboscis Monkeys, wild Orangutans resting in the canopy, and the magnificent Rhinoceros Hornbill.
Beyond the hornbills, the riverbanks were teeming with life. We even made the steep trek up the steps to the Gomantong platform to witness the spectacular, swirling vortex of the evening bat exodus.
The Kinabatangan "Mystery Monkey"
During our river cruises, we kept a sharp eye out for the local primate populations, including Silvered Langurs. Interestingly, the lower Kinabatangan is famous in primatology for hosting rare hybrid Silvered Langurs (crosses between a male Proboscis Monkey and a female Silvered Langur). This cross-genus hybridization is a stark, direct result of habitat fragmentation; as palm oil plantations narrow the riverine forest patches, these two distinct species are forced into close quarters, leading to mixed-species troops and fascinating, unique offspring.
After leaving the river behind, a morning session at the specialized Kinabatangan hide treated us to a spectacular assembly: Bornean Crested Fireback, Ruddy Kingfisher, Rufous-collared Kingfisher (female), and the intricate Banded Broadbill.
Final Stand in Taliwas and Silam
Our final two days (June 14th and 15th) were spent in Lahad Datu to explore the pristine forest pockets of Taliwas and Silam. Borneo saved some of its best magic for the finale. We successfully saw the legendary Bornean Ground-Cuckoo and the striking Black-crowned Pitta. To our complete surprise, a Chestnut-capped Thrush made an unexpected appearance. To top it off, I bagged a personal lifer for the year—the Sunda Blue Flycatcher. Watching Sudip capture these final endemics with the refined eye of a decade-long veteran was the perfect end to a wild, rain-soaked, brilliant Bornean odyssey.
Trip Bird List (Categorized by Family)
Phasianidae (Partridges & Pheasants)
Red-breasted Partridge (Endemic)
Crimson-headed Partridge (Endemic)
Crested Partridge
Sabah Partridge (Endemic)
Bulwer's Pheasant (Female observed; Endemic)
Bornean Peacock-Pheasant (Endemic)
Bornean Crested Fireback (Endemic)
Anatidae (Ducks & Geese)
Wandering Whistling-Duck
Columbidae (Pigeons & Doves)
Various green-pigeons and cuckoo-doves recorded
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
Bornean Ground-Cuckoo (Endemic)
Ciconiidae (Storks)
Storm's Stork
Lesser Adjutant
Sulidae / Anhingidae (Darters)
Oriental Darter
Accipitridae (Hawks & Eagles)
Wallace's Hawk-Eagle
Trogonidae (Trogons)
Whitehead's Trogon (Endemic)
Diard's Trogon
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
Banded Kingfisher (Black-faced subspecies)
Blue-eared Kingfisher
Stork-billed Kingfisher
Collared Kingfisher
Ruddy Kingfisher
Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfisher
Rufous-collared Kingfisher
Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
Species recorded along river channels
Bucerotidae (Hornbills)
Rhinoceros Hornbill
Wreathed Hornbill
Black Hornbill
Oriental Pied Hornbill
Wrinkled Hornbill
White-crowned Hornbill
Bushy-crested Hornbill
Megalaimidae (Asian Barbets)
Golden-naped Barbet (Endemic)
Eurylaimidae (Asian Broadbills)
Banded Broadbill
Black-and-red Broadbill
Black-and-yellow Broadbill
Pittidae (Pittas)
Bornean Banded Pitta (Endemic)
Western Hooded Pitta (Black-crowned form)
Black-crowned Pitta (Endemic)
Platylophidae & Corvidae (Magpies & Jays)
Bornean Green Magpie (Endemic)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers & Shamas)
Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher (Endemic)
Little Pied Flycatcher
Dayak Blue Flycatcher (Endemic)
Malaysian Blue Flycatcher
Sunda Blue Flycatcher (Lifer!)
Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher
White-crowned Shama (Endemic)
Timaliidae & Pellorneidae (Babblers)
Sunda Scimitar-Babbler
Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush (Endemic)
Sunda Laughingthrush
Black-throated Wren-babbler (Endemic)
Grey-hooded Babbler
Bornean Black-capped Babbler (Endemic)
Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)
Penan Bulbul (Endemic)
Turdidae (Thrushes)
Chestnut-capped Thrush
Notable Mammals & Reptiles Logged:
Orangutan
Proboscis Monkey (Endemic)
Silvered Langur & Hybrid Silvered Langur
Pig-tailed Macaque & Long-tailed Macaque
Least Pygmy Squirrel, Prevost's Squirrel
Long-footed Treeshrew
Estuarine Crocodile
Various localized skinks





























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